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So, I've been grappling for a while now about how to start this post, I've actually been putting off writing it . My trip to Lisbon was extremely personal for multiple reasons- everytime I travel, especially solo, I always think that it's an opportunity for self reflection. It was my first international solo trip and it was also during a period in my life where I was grieving. The day that I went to Lisbon was the day that my grandfather died. The last thing that I wanted to do was take a flight- especially to a destination that wasn't home.But in today’s post I'm going to talk candidly about how I learned to not necessarily overcome the grief but to roll with it. Grief is something that is so personal to all of us. Some of us are lucky enough to not experience it until much later on in life. Others aren't so lucky. Losing a loved one affects us in an individual way- my grandfather had a lot of grandchildren yet I'm sure that each of us was grieving in a different way. I've spoken briefly about the grief process before, but during that time everything was still so fresh and raw that I really held in a lot of what I had to say. Truthfully, I don't think that you ever truly 'get over' the death of a loved one. Even writing this I can feel the tears swelling in my eyes. The one thing about grief is that it is transient- it comes in waves and you I suppose you just have to ride the wave. I'm learning not to fight it. One night, a few weeks after my granddad's death I was laying in bed, having had a perfectly ordinary day and I just broke down in tears. It seemed to come from nowhere, but clearly my mind and body had been surpressing this grief. The best thing to do is to let it out. Heck, my eyes started streaming when I was on the metro in paris on my daily commute whilst listening to Beyonce's new song 'Spirit'. It just goes to show that we're more in tune with our bodies than we think and that we know in ourselves when to be emotional. Having lost friends before as I child, I didn't really understand the grieving process, as a young adult- the realisation of our mortality and the process of ageing really did hit me hard. The idea that my grandparents aren't going to be here forever. As pragmatic as I am, I found that I couldn't compartmentalise my emotions- I couldn't plan ahead or know how to deal with this. The day of my grandfather's funeral I was trying to mentally prepare myself- I didn't want to cause a scene by becoming overly emotional, I just wanted to get through the day. However, as soon as we headed to the funeral just seeing a photo of my granddad invoked a flurry of uncontrollable tears. This was after weeks or travelling and getting on with my daily life. Like I said; grief comes in waves and some days you are up and others you feel down but both feelings are totally legitimised. Like I said I don't believe that I'll ever get over losing my granddad; however I think I'm learning to cope with it a little bit more every single day. So how did I managed to do my solo trip to Lisbon? In all honesty I have no idea how I did that trip. I really didn't want to go after hearing the news a few hours before. Both my mum and dad encouraged me to go, they told me that its what my granddad would have wanted. Besides it was only a short three day trip- what was I going to do at home? Probably cut myself off from friends and wallow in my bedroom. Now both options are totally valid, but I thought that by cooping myself in my room it would be detrimental for my mental health in the long run. However I decided, after a lot of thought to go on the trip. In retrospect, I think that I really did disassociate myself whilst I was on the trip- I was there in body but quite frankly my mind was somewhere else. I cried the whole way through the flight- luckily I was sat on a pretty empty plane with no-one sat next to me. All I can say is that I felt a pit of emptiness- I cried until I ran on empty- there was a point where I felt I couldn't cry anymore. My eyes were puffy and swollen- like I'd had a bad allergic reaction and I had a headache from thinking and feeling so much. When we finally landed all I wanted was my bed- however I was greeted at my hostel with a shot of tequila and an invite to a pub crawl (I'd forgotten I'd booked a party hostel). I'm not an advocate for running away from your problems; however in retrospect I do believe that the trip came at the right time for me. I had planned to make it a party weekend- being super sociable with my roommates and heading out to all of the erasmus nights/ pub crawls I could. Nonetheless, the weekend wasn't like that at all; however I do think that taking things at a slower pace was what I needed at that time. On the first day of the trip, I woke up a little dazed and confused- I'd clearly cried myself into oblivion and had woken up in an unfamiliar setting. One philosophy that I've taken on ever since my granddad died is the fact that we only have one life. Life is so short, most of us think that tomorrow is guaranteed but it isn't. Not to make this post bleak, but within keeping with that mindset I've decided to try and embrace everything that the world throws at me. I have to take all opportunities that interest me and come my way- I didn't know when I'd be back in Lisbon and I knew more than anything that he would want me to make ether most of the trip. In a way- I made myself enjoy the trip. That weekend I was the embodiment of "fake it until you make it" philosophy-and it actually worked. Life is so short, most of us think that tomorrow is guaranteed but it isn't. That Friday started off bleak and grey, it had drizzled lightly and I felt that it was truly a moment of pathetic fallacy- it seemed that the weather really did reflect how I felt on the inside. Regardless, I decided that I was going to tick off most of the things on my bucket list that day. So I went to Praço do Comércio, which was conveniently situated 10 minutes walk away from my hostel. If I had to describe Lisbon in a colour, I would say yellow which is ironic considering everything around me was quilted in grey; my mood and the sky. The square is really quite breathtaking, and quite well connected to the metro lines. There's a stunning arc way and then a boardwalk in which you can see a bridge that closely resembles the Golden Gate Bridge . I decided that that day was the day I wanted to explore the Belem neighbourhood- I'd heard that nearby you could find one of the best bakeries in Lisbon. I'm not a deeply religious person, I'd say I'm more spiritual than anything, however most f my trips end up gravitating around cathedrals and churches. I supposes that a lot of what Europe was about; it comes part and parcel with the history. I decided to visit the Monastery dos Jeronimos. I think I was feeling emotionally sensitive during this time period and I was extremely susceptible to bursting into tears at any given moment- which looking back was always triggered in places of worship. I had to let myself go through the motions and cry if I needed to; even in front of strangers. But the most reassuring thing was, no-one every approached me about it, they never laughed or commented- I was allowed to let it out. This happened at the monastery- it was the first of many emotional wobbles that I'd have during the trip. Each time I cried, I did feel better and it felt like I was letting go of the emptiness I had felt. Of course not everyone is a 'crier' and thats fine too. As long as you don't repress your feelings then I think that it’s better to get them out. Despite the tears, I, surprisingly, had fun that day; I visited the Museum of Modern and Contemporary art which isI really enjoyed- they had some offbeat yet interesting exhibitions. I also visited the Tower of Belem, which is a huge fortification- once you climb up the tower you can get stunning views. I also taste tested the famous Pasteis de Belem. They are kind of like custard tart- apparently the monks used to make them, but now there seen as a symbol of Lisbon. I have to say, the best way to enjoy one of these pastries is to find a nice quiet spot in the sun. They are honestly some of the best pastries I've ever tasted (special tip, add some brown sugar or cinnamon on the top- trust me it will blow your mind). That evening I took myself out to dinner, something that I'm still getting accustomed to- I actually found it nice to sit with my book and glass of wine and watch people dine together. I picked a vegan restaurant (Organi Chiado) which was close by to the hostel and I was not disappointed. The food was really good and well priced and it was an intimate space but not too much to make me feel like an odd one out. Day 2: I'd booked onto a Sandeman's walking tour. Now, I've praised these tours before and I was not disappointed with this one. Our guide was so fun and genuinely interested in the history of Portugal. He was from the Algarve and he gave us such obscure and interesting information about hidden areas and how to avoid tourist traps. I really appreciated the time that he took with us and I do suggest that you follow this instgram (which I'll leave a link to) because he takes wonderful photos which are really quirky are are reminiscent of ‘art house‘ type vibes. I also decided to wander that day, seeing as many viewpoints as possible. It felt nice not having a rigid itinerary. At points I actually forgot that I was grieving; I'd kind of burrowed myself into a different headspace. At other time, the emotions would flood back, but like I said before they do come in waves. I spent the rest of that day wandering the hills of Lisbon and seeking viewpoints (which are not too hard to find). One thing I loved the most about Lisbon was the fact that it seemed at every point that you turned you could see amazing views of the whole city. You could stumble upon an alcove and then find yourself staring along the coast. Another must see that I would 100% recommend is the "Feira da Ladra" its an antiques flea market and you can find EVERYTHING- books, pots and pans, jewellery and VHS tapes. I love rummaging through these types of street markets, its kind of like digging for treasure. If you look hard enough you're bound to stumble upon some goodies (and I found the most beautiful pair of earrings). For dinner that night I tried bacalhau (cod) which is a typical portugese dish. I made a rookie mistake and went seeking for a place that served ONLY bacalhau (a big no). It was called A casa do Bacalhau and whilst the food was good it was extremely (eye- watering) expensive. Plus, I had to wait 35 minutes for them to cook my fish (but at least I know that it was fresh). Day 3: That day I decided to ride the number 28 tram which heads up to the city.These are older rickety looking trams- at times I felt a little unsafe as we headed up the steep and sloping hills, however it was such a fun and inexpensive thing to do. I took the line to the very end and ended up in the Graça neighbourhood and again I found a beautiful garden and some amazing street art. The views from the Miradouro was phenomenal- I was super lucky to have visited on a weekend with clear blue skies. I then walked back down the hill to soak in the views again and I met up with my friend Sophie, who has been in Lisbon for a year on her year abroad. We sat in the sun and had caipirinhas and basked in the sun next to the port. I met Sophie almost 5 years ago when we were both doing work experience in translation, it was so nice to meet up again and also hear about someone else's year abroad experience. That afternoon it reached the mid 30s and I was DYING in the heat. Sophie recommend that I take the train to the nearby town of Cascais which is a beach resort. I could do with a bit of R&R so I decided to take the short journey and of course the beach was crammed with people who all had the same idea as me. Nonetheless I really enjoyed the day and I was so glad that I could cool off a little in the sea. My flight was that evening and whilst the trip had be emotionally charged and difficult, it enabled me to recalibrate and to take time for myself. Of course the thought of my grandad was omnipresent in my mind throughout that weekend but I tried to do the trip in memory of him; I know the he would never have forgiven me if I hadn't gone. Sometimes we have to confront our fears head on, I didn't want to be left alone, in my head worrying and fretting. This trip to Lisbon really helped me to see that the world goes on and we have to enjoy every moment that we can, whilst we still can. "Life is short Time is fast No replay No rewind So enjoy every moment as it comes" I'm not sure who said that quote, let me know in the comments if you do. Whoever they are, they're 100% right- life is for living!

2019 really was the year that I became the person that I've wanted to be for a long time. I'm a lot more independent and this was due, in part, to me embracing my Oui! Si! Yes! mentality and deciding to solo travel. I was extremely fortunate that I had a flexible work timetable. I was certainly the envy of my co-workers; as I worked Tuesdays, Wednesday and Thursdays for a grand total of 12 hours per week! Not too shabby is it? I was on a pretty good salary teaching English in Spain and I had heaps of free time, it was as if the universe was calling me to travel. One of the main reasons I travelled so frequently, and often solo, was because I had a lot of free time. Most of my friends didn’t have the same timetable as me and despite enjoying group travel I wasn’t going to waste the opportunity of potentially travelling for 4 days per week. Before taking my first trip alone I had a lot of anxiety about travelling, I was nervous about meeting new people, navigating new places and generally not having a good time. I feel like each time I’ve travelled I’m slowly breaking down any anxieties that I have. My main aim for this year was to put myself out there a lot more, and one of the ways that I’d hope to achieve this goal was to expose myself to other cultures whilst travelling. This year I’ve explored different cities- and even taken my first ever international solo flight. It may not seem like a big deal to most people, but for me- as someone who had a lot of anxiety about taking a train up from Manchester to Durham, this was a huge step. This year alone I visited Madrid, Zaragoza, Toledo, Bilbao, San Sebastian, Santander and Lisbon all by myself! I’m quite proud of myself for having the guts to take these flights, buses and trains and in this post I’m going to talk to you all about why I think you should solo travel. Concern #1: Travelling whilst Black This often comes up on a lot of news articles or feeds that I read. This year I’ve discovered a really cool social media movement called #blacktravelmovement which is encouraging black individuals like myself to pack up and take the opportunity to travel. As a child I was extremely lucky to have been able to visit a lot of diverse and cool places with my parents: Cuba, Jamaica, Barbados, Turkey and many others. For me, travelling whilst black had never been an issue- I had always been surrounded by my parents who had always masked me from hidden prejudices, hence I was somewhat in a miniature happy go lucky multicultural bubble. As a child a lot of the places we had visited were Caribbean islands, therefore the demographic was mainly People of Colour. As I’ve gotten older and travelled across Europe a bit more I started to see that often I’m one of the few Black tourists. Initially this used to bother me a little; I’ve grown up in Manchester and I’m used to being surrounded by a lot of racial diversity. Nevertheless I haven’t let this deter me from travelling. At times I would get stared at, but now I don’t see this as a negative thing because it usually doesn’t come from malicious intent. When I first moved to Valencia and started to work in my pueblo of Paterna, I could feel the eyes of the locals staring at me. I used to feel very self-conscious and uncomfortable even just walking down the street. However, after a year or so of travelling I’ve realised that just as I am venturing into a new place and experiencing new cultures, for locals it often is their first time encountering someone who looks like me. The stares come more from a place of curiosity rather than condemnation. Most of the time, locals are extremely kind and welcoming when you visit their hometown, especially if it isn’t usually a tourist destination. Whenever I go to a new place, I always try to be respectful and courteous, after all you are a guest in someone else’s home. When I first started travelling I put this huge burden on myself to kind of be an example for all Black tourists; almost as though I was a representative for every Black person. In hindsight I can see that this is quite a damaging thing to do, and as I’m sure that white people aren’t set that standard, so why should I? I always try and keep in mind what my parents taught me: kindness and respect. With those two things you really can’t go wrong. For any people of colour who are afraid or a little cautious of solo travelling I would say, please don’t be too worried. Unfortunately racism and discrimination still exists everywhere, although often it is more covert than in the past. Nonetheless, please do not let this discourage you from broadening your horizons and seeing new places. We cannot change the colour of our skin, however via travelling we can expand our viewpoints and perspectives. I’m a firm believer that travelling can breakdown barriers of ignorance and prejudice, for both the traveller and locals. Concern #2: Travelling as a female My parents were more concerned about me travelling alone as a young woman rather than as a Black person. I can understand why, there are certain precautions and things that I have to think about, which men have the privilege of never experiencing. Most of these tips are pretty self- explanatory or self evident, but the key to being safe is to always be aware of your surroundings. Don’t put yourself in a situation that will put you at even more risk. It is really crappy that as women we still have to bear in mind the minute possibility that things could turn sour. For example, avoid taking late night public transport if you are on your own. Paying for a taxi or uber might be a little bit more expensive but also could be safer. If you are heading out to somewhere, always let a friend know- even if they’re not in the same country as you. I always used to tell my friend Paige where I was going and what I was doing just to take extra precautions. Cat calling is still a real problem, especially for young women- I face this a lot in Paris at the minute. Most of the time I try not to engage with them, I have headphones in, even if I’m not listening to music or I just look past them. I will never understand how a guy thinks that by beckoning a woman in a disparaging and crude way will make us automatically drop what we’re doing and pay attention to them! Has anyone ever seen this tactic work? It honestly astounds me that we live in a world where this behaviour is a part of daily life! In terms of accommodation, I’ve stayed in hostels with mixed rooms, but when I can I like to stay in female only dorms. I’ve met a lot of amazing people in mixed dorms, however in a female dorm it isn’t really about safety but more about meeting other girls and having some downtime and some girly conversations! General things that I’ve learned whilst solo travelling Even though you are solo travelling, you’re never truly alone. On my trip to the North of Spain, I was pleasantly surprised that I made friends with the people who stayed in my hostel. Hostels are a hub of social activity- there are usually a lot of common spaces and you can come across all times of people in your dorm. In Bilbao made friends with an Israeli called Guy and German girl, Andrea and we got on really well. So much so that we did a walking tour together and went out for drinks one night. I made friends with a group of Australian girls in my dorm room in San Sebastian who invited me on a night out and we shared lots of tips for things to see and do in the city. Even if you are looking for a detox and a bit of time to recharge, there is always a social element to solo travel. Tailor make your own itinerary I’ve mentioned in previous posts that I’m a fiercely independent person, I love to do things on my own and make my own decisions. I think that this is why solo travel really suits me because I have the autonomy to create my own plan. As much as I love group travel, it is nice to not have to compromise with other people on what you want to see and do. I love heading to art galleries and museums so I always designate time to do those things when I travel. I also get burned out if I’m travelling a lot, therefore when I’m on my own I have no problem with taking a rest day and doing something a bit more chilled out. Time to detox Following on from my last segment, I’ve also learned that solo travel is a great opportunity to check in with you and your own mental health. I love to journal and write and I always try to capture my thoughts and feelings in the moment- even if that’s just by jotting down a few thoughts in the notes section of my phone. Travelling allows me to take the time to do the things that I love the most, reading and writing. There is no right or wrong way to solo travel, that’s why it’s so great- it’s down to the individual. When I went to Portugal it was immediately after my grandfather passed away. I was uncertain about how I was going to cope travelling alone in a new place. However, travelling is the best thing that I could have done- I was able to take my mind off the situation yet also have some alone time to cry and come to terms with my feelings. It was kind of like a mini retreat for me- I could recalibrate and then come back to Valencia mentally and emotionally stronger. Take photos- but make sure you’re in them too! When I first started to solo travel, I would hate having to ask strangers to take my photo. I didn’t want to bother them whilst they were enjoying their holiday. But then I realised, its all well and good having picture of Parque Retiro and the Miradors of Lisbon, but in order to really solidify the memories, don’t you want to be in the photo? My tip is to ask politely in the language of the country that you are in, if that fails try and resort to English. Most of the time people will be more than happy to take your photo. If you’re really specific about how you like your shots, follow suit of my friend Paige who lines up the shot, holds it in place for the photographer and then jumps into the shot. That’s how you know that you’re doing Instagram right! Final hacks for solo travel: o When out and about if you want to keep your possessions safe, you can either wear your rucksack on the front to your body or lock the zips together. I prefer the second method and I carry the key either in my shoe or on a chain around my neck. o Take a water bottle and fill it up throughout the day - all of that walking is tiring and you’ll definitely work up a sweat. o If your hostel offers free breakfast, take advantage of it. Even if you have to pay a small contribution fee, stock up on snacks for throughout the day- I like to take a few muffins and a piece of fruit with me. o If your hostel offers a free walking tour or organises pub crawls- take the plunge- say Oui! Si! Yes! and do it! There have been many times that I’ve been anxious to join in on a night out- but I’ve met some really cool people along the way. If this is too much for you, even just hanging out in the commons spaces is cool- you’re sure to strike up a conversation with someone interesting. o Use the apps “airbnb” or “meetup” to find social events and free things to do. Often groups will organise language exchanges or a meet ups for other international travellers. o My must haves for travelling are a portable charger, earplugs for the hostel and an eye mask. Dorm life isn’t for everyone and I’ve definitely encountered a lot of snorers in my time. So there you have it folks- my comprehensive guide to solo travel. This of course isn’t an exhaustive list, these a re a few of the things that I’ve found work for me. I’m sure I’ll expand my list too. My best piece of advice is to go out there and do it- don’t let the fear hold you back You never know what experiences you’ll have or who you’ll meet if you don’t try!

I am a planner. I love to be organised and frankly if I don’t have my sh*t together that really freaks me out. Throughout my life, I have always characterised myself as someone who is a “go-getter”, I would describe myself as being fiercely ambitious and driven- in other terms I’m a grafter. This work ethic has been instilled to me throughout my life, I’ve seen it in my peers but mainly in my family; my dad worked full time as an agricultural manager for 42 years for the City Council. Whilst securing this job he also was a freelance part time DJ and in recent years he has branched into multi-level marketing and works for two other companies. My mum is exactly the same, she has worked throughout her life and has always encouraged me to be a hard worker and strive to become self-sufficient, moulding me into the little feminist and independent woman that I am. Now this isn’t a post to brag about how much work experience I have or how ‘qualified’ I am, the point in question is actually challenging that. You’d think that with all of the work experience that I do have; I’d at least have some idea of what I want to do in life. Nope. I have no clue. Well, I have a few ideas but my problem has always been committing to one thing. I’ve always liked to have my eggs in multiple baskets- as a child I wanted to do everything. I essentially had no free time as a teenager because most of my evening were spent fostering my ever-growing list of hobbies: netball, girl guides, piano, rounders, dance- you name it and I’ve probably tried it. Each one of these activities taught me something new: piano taught me perseverance and that quitting is not the answer, dance taught me how to commit to something you love and strive to fulfil a goal. Netball and rounders taught me how to compromise and work in a team. Long before I started this life lessons series on my blog, I had been unintentionally cultivating my own private list for almost a decade. Even now I’m still looking for hobbies and things to fill up my free time; for example this year I really got into working out at the gym and weight training and I actually discovered that I love spin classes because they satisfy my needs to be in an independent yet goal orientated setting. I’ve really enjoyed blogging and experimenting with photography too. Despite the great number of hobbies that I’ve accrued, I still haven’t worked out what my passion in life is. I’m still debating whether you can only have one single passion- or whether you can be attracted to lots of different things. One thing that I do know is that I definitely veer more towards the creative and artistic side of the spectrum. I’m a people person and I know that whatever job I have, I want to help people. I have a few ideas of what could work for me, but the thing that stresses me out the most is the uncertainty of it all. I’ve been on my year abroad for almost a year, during this time I’ve travelled, met new people and had a multitude of experiences. I’m working for a co-working company again and I love the autonomy that I have in the job. Although I am interning, I still have a lot of responsibility and I am expected to handle things on my own which I like. Working in a space surrounded by starts up and people working on their passions simultaneously inspires me and also fills me with dread. I long to have the guts to do what they do; a lot of the time my co-workers have trialled other sectors before committing to their own business. I do think that this is important and throughout all of my work experience, even though I don’t have a definitive idea about what career path I want to take, I’m now sure that there are some that I will definitely be trying to avoid- thanks having the opportunity to work in these fields. As the summer draws near and the vacuous month of August looms, all I can think about is what to do to occupy my free time. Even though I’m working full time, my work is people based and so if there aren’t many clients, my workload is significantly reduced. Now for most people that isn’t such a bad thing, but for me it means that most of the time I’m in my head about what I want to do- almost forcing myself into a premature quarter life crisis. One thing that I am learning is that it is okay to have no idea about what you want to do. I remember speaking to my mum about this a while ago and asking her, what it was that she wanted to do in life. She told me that she’s still not sure what she wants to do- and she is middle aged (but looks amazing for her age!). I even went home for a little rest period in June and sat in the car for about an hour with my dad, talking through my concerns. He basically told me that its perfectly natural to not have a concrete idea of what you want to do; he told me that my issue is that I’ve got an overabundance of options and interests. I need to really cull my list and try to find something that really motivates me and that I’ll find my passion when I least expect it. When I went to visit my friends at university, it was strange seeing most of them preparing to graduate and then join the “real world. It’s crazy to think that at 21 we’re expected to have a clear idea of our life goals. However, when I spoke to them that wasn’t the case; some had decided to do a masters to bide some more time, a few have graduate jobs working in the city but the majority had no idea what they wanted to do. I realised that this feeling I was having wasn’t an isolated case, although people seem to have it figured out, we’re all just fumbling around in this world, going through the motions, trying to find something that sticks. My friend Bridie said something interesting to me the other day; she had recently been offered a job with a company but she wasn’t sure if she was going to accept the offer because it would mean not finishing her degree. She told me that she was uncertain about what to do but that she was going to ‘trust in the universe’. I love that phrasing, because it’s very true. That is all we can do- I do believe that we should take every day as it comes. Yes, of course have those little nagging thoughts in our minds and we will always worry about things, but we’re human and we have a limited amount of time on earth. There is no use in getting worked up about things that you can’t control. Allowing ourselves to “go with the flow” is quite hard thing to do- it is like plunging into the unknown, taking a leap of faith. But isn’t that what life is and what we do each day? It generates a lot of anxiety in me to admit that I have no idea what I want to do, but also it is comforting to know that this feeling is shared amongst my peers. Our generation is most likely to have a multiple career paths, rather than conventionally fulfilling one job for life. I’m learning that there are no “right” or “wrong” paths; there are some pathways that are better travelled than others, more conventional. Yet taking a detour and finding your own passion and trying to establish your own way can be just as much, if not more exciting. Trusting in the process is something that we all need to do- our lives are not written out for us, the possibilities are endless and we have so much to look forward to. ** Image taken from Pinterest

Our Andalusian adventure concluded in the city of Granada. We had factored in 4 days of exploring this city into our trip and I have to confess by the time we had reached there, I was already a little burned out. We'd been super prepared for our trip and we knew that we had wanted to see the main attraction: The Alhambra. However, when the time came around to book it- in February because we were very prepared for our trip- we saw that all of the tickets were sold out! So, in our desperation we bought something called the Granada card. This travel card gave us access to public transport, the Alhambra and 9 other tourist attractions. The card itself was 40€ and I wouldn't really recommend it. Firstly, Granada as a city is quite walkable; despite the stooping hills and cobbled pathways, if you're mobile you'll have no problem getting around by foot. Secondly, the card itself included many attractions that we normally would not visit, for example the Science Park. I would only recommend that you get the card if you want o guarantee a visit to the Alhambra. We also heard that if you want to risk it, you can try heading onto the official Alhambra website at midnight because they re-release cancelled tickets for the following day. It's a bit of a risk, but I've heard that it often does pay off. Our hostel was located in the Albaicin neighbourhood, which is enriched in Moorish and Arabic influences. The succulent smell of the souk permeated the air and as you meander through the alleyways your senses are impacted by the smell of sweet Moroccan delicacies and incense. Each day that we spent in Granada I fell more and more in love with it. Initially I was apprehensive because we were sending a lot of time in one spot and I had extremely high exceptions for the Alhambra. When the day arrived, it was overcast, rainy and generally there was a mood of discord amongst myself and the girls. This, of cars was inevitable after spending almost 24 hours a day with each other. I'm somewhat of what I like to call an "extroverted introvert". When I'm surrounded by friends or family, I'd say that I'm a high energy, fun loving person. I have quite an active social life and I like to meet up with friends when I can. However, after bouts of intense socialising, I often feel drained and I need to to decompress and be alone for a while in order to recharge. We hadn't really had that opportunity during the trip; we were "go go go" squeezing in as much sight seeing as we could and I was running on empty. Needless to say that, on my part at least, the atmosphere was a little frosty at times during our day at the Alhambra. Despite this, I really enjoyed the day overall. The Alhambra is the crowning glory of Granada, the main section are the Nasrid Palaces, gardens, Generalife and fortifications. You really do need a whole day to fully digest everything that you see. It's a lot of hills and a lot of walking, but it is so worth it. My favourite part of the day was seeing the Nasrid palaces. You have a specific slot that you can visit this part of the alhambra, if you miss your slot then unfortunately, you might miss this coveted gem. We were so eager to see it that we queued up 30 minutes in advance. I have to say that the Alhambra, truly is magnificent- the architecture and preservation of the palaces is outstanding. At every corner it is seeping with history and information and I feel as though a visit to Granada isn't complete without seeing it. Even if you can't get tickets in advance, parts of the Alhambra are free to view and are open to the public. So, I suppose you might be wondering, what else is there to do in Granada if the Alhambra is the main attraction. Well, there's actually a plethora of things to do. The Albaicin neighbourhood has a hub of activity- it's definitely hipster central. You're sure to find your typical gap year, hippy student lazing in one of the many niche cafes or strumming a guitar in the cobbled plazas. One often things I loved the most was taking a walk and wandering through the neighbourhood. through our hostel we went on an evening walking tour of the neighbourhood which culminated ion seeing the sunset at the Mirador de San Miguel Alto. If you head there for the sunset with a beer in hand, you can catch the golden hour and also take a some really good photos- it's the perfect end to a day of walking and exploration. The culinary scene is extremely varied in Granada- there is fusion of Middle Eastern and Spanish cusine amply available at every corner. Whether you're looking for kebabs or paella- you can be sure to find it. It isn't just the quality of the food which is outstanding, but also the quantity. Whoever said less is more, had clearly never visited Granada! Here in the south of Spain there is a really interesting custom when it comes to tapas. In Valencia, if you order a beer or glass or wine, sometimes you'll be served some olives or peanuts as a mini 'tapa'. Granada takes this to a whole new level. I was forewarned that I might go up a dress size during our mini break and honestly, I was very close. An amazing dinner hack for Granada is to go to a bar and order a drink. It can be anything; beer, wine, sangria; whatever you like. Then, you'll either be asked to choose something from a specific tapas menu or the waiter will bring over a pre-selected dish. Now, heres the fun part; these tapas are free of charge. So if you order a 2€ beer you might also get a portion of tortilla or some croquettes. If you decide to stay at the bar and order more drinks, more food will be provided for you. You can have a full, varied meal, by simply paying for a few beers. Not bad is it? Another thing that we also did in Granada was shop. It was hard not to, there were lots of small boutiques and marketplaces- many of which had beautifully handcrafted jewellery, magnet and photo frames. I try to collect memories and not things when I travel- only really indulging in a postcard from each place that I've visited. Nevertheless, I couldn't help but splurge a little in our final part of the trip- I convinced myself, as a way to curb my "treat yourself" mentality that its always better to help smaller, local businesses. In terms of our Granada card, we did use it but not to its full potential. We visited a Casa Zafra, a monastery and also the Granada Cathedral. At this point I was slightly fed up with churches but I found the Cathedral very informative because there was a free audioguide included- however it was a little too thorough and each audio section went on for quite a while. So that draws our Andalusian adventure to a close, I really enjoyed the trip and spending time with my two favourite chicas Paige and Steph. Travelling in a group of friends is definitely eye opening but I would 100% do it again. Keep you eyes peeled for a new blog post coming soon; there's a lot of travel content coming up!

I’m sat writing this blogpost on my balcony in Paris (wow that sounds boujee af). I arrived a few days ago, after a somewhat tumultuous experience- which I’ll tell you all about another time. The air is stuffy, as the city isn’t very well ventilated, the Parisians can be rude and the metro is cramped and sweaty. But hey, that’s what I signed up for and today, after a somewhat exhaustive first day at a new job, the sight of the Sacré Cœur gleaming in the sun made me think of little moments of happiness in life. So whilst I'm still adjusting to the restlessness of Paris, my mind has been wandering back to a simpler time, a quieter time in which I felt truly at peace. That was when we visited the city of Córdoba. I’ve never been to Greece before, yet having seen postcards of serene white islands of Mykonos and Santorini, I couldn’t help but feel transported there when we arrived in Córdoba from our short bus journey from Sevilla. We had scheduled two days to see the city; it was the middle of April and the Semana Santa celebrations were dying down profusely. What I hadn’t anticipated was the sweltering heat- this was April, and in the U.K we’re used to grey, cloudy skies and drizzly weather. Córdoba was a whole other ball game. We were melting and disgustingly sweaty all the time- it was around 30 degrees and I for one wasn’t prepared. The city, although lively and populous, still had a hidden charm to it; despite being crowded, and we didn’t feel suffocated amongst the throngs of tourists. I immediately felt a sense of calm within me. Now Córdoba is pretty small in comparison to Sevilla and Granada and its reputation doesn’t precede it. What reputation you may ask; well we came to Córdoba to discover the Mezquita- a holy place which fuses together Islam and Christianity. This was the “pièce de resistance” of Córdoba and weren’t leaving until we saw it. I had high hopes for it and perhaps I’d built it up too much in my head- I can’t deny that it is a beautiful building with an amazing courtyard, however I wasn’t completely blown away by it. But from my pictures (and perhaps a visit there yourself) I’ll let you guys make up your mind about it. I do recommend paying that little bit extra to go up the tower to get some amazing views of the city (you’ll thank me later). Myself, Paige and Steph spent the first day wandering around the cobbled streets and never-ending alleyways, cruising through the streets and stopping at all the jewellery shops we could find. If you haven’t been to Córdoba I would recommend a weekend trip. Two days for us was the perfect amount of time to fully divulge into the culture of this quaint town. The Calleja de las flores is a must see- although you’ll be fighting with a lot of tourists to get the perfect Instagram shot. Córdoba is renowned for its patios and you can even book onto specialised patio tours however most are free to see. Another thing to see in Córdoba is the old Roman Towers, which are quite a walk away from the city centre but they’ve been preserved beautifully and if you’re a bit of a history buff you should definitely check them out. Córdoba has strong ties to Rome, which is evident in the large bridge that runs through the city. It’s hard to miss and a bit of a work out for the legs! But in all seriousness, you get a fantastic view of the city and walking along it you’ll encounter a myriad of street performers, singers and kooky characters. My highlight of the trip was heading to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos- we waiting in a queue for about 45 minutes just to gain entry but it was so worth it. The gardens are beautiful- even if horticulture isn’t your thing I still believe it would be hard for anyone to not be blown away by the perfectly primed courtyards and flowerbeds. Although I’m not your type of girl to go on hikes, I would say that I do have an affinity with nature- maybe its because my dad was a gardener, who knows? All I can say is that whenever I’m in a botanic garden I get really pensive and reflective. Green spaces are definitely my happy places. The overarching reason as to why I loved Córdoba so much was the memories that I made there. I really got to wind down and relax, although we were on holiday in Andalusia, constant travel can be tiring and sometimes overwhelming. We had rented an air bnb in Córdoba, which was the best decision ever. We could take a breather and have some alone time whilst also being able to relax and enjoy each other’s company. During that trip we had some really candid conversations and really got to know each other a lot better. Although it wasn’t perfect, it was an integral part of our trip and I’ll always remember that night we sat and cooked a tapas feast and watched Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants (which if you haven’t seen it before- what on earth are you doing?!) The next and final instalment of this mini series will cover our final days in Granada- a city which sparked an ever-growing interest in myself between the cultural and historical bond between the Middle East and Spain.

This post has been a long time overdue, especially since I went to Andalusia over two months ago now! The past couple of weeks I've been on the go, 'ouisiyesing', hosting friends, travelling and basically making the most of the short time I have left in Spain. I've had this ongoing gnawing feeling to write but every time I've tried I simply couldn't put the words down on paper. Once you fall out of habit with something, it often becomes very difficult to draw yourself in again. However these past couple of months have been so formative for me and I feel like I've developed a lot personally, therefore I want to share my experiences with you all- despite the tardiness of the post! So let's cast ourselves back to April 2019, I was preparing to travel to Andalusia with my two of my housemates and friends; Steph and Paige. We were about to embark on a 10 day trip to the South of Spain, hostel hopping and taking advantage of the Holy Week. I must confess that I was a little- if not very- anxious about travelling for 10 days. I've travelled for longer time periods but only with my parents. I'd cultivated good relationships throughout the year with both girls and I know that travelling with friends can often be a deal breaker. Nevertheless, I was excited about the prospect of travelling with my buddies and sharing this experience with them. The plan was to fly into Sevilla and spend three days there, then head to Cordoba for two days, up to Granada for three and a half days before returning to Sevilla to fly home. It was a lot in a few days but I relished the opportunity to see another side of Spain- after all Andalusia was the first region I'd ever visited in Spain and I absolutely fell in love with it. I was optimistic that I'd have that head over heels feeling again as soon as we touched down. When we arrived, we weren't greeted with the sunshine that I'd ardently hoped for, it was overcast and lightly showering. I can't lie, internally I was a little disappointed because I was hoping for weather dissimilar from Manchester (where I'm from). However this was only day one of three and we had plenty of time to see and do everything we wanted. We'd picked the Black Swan Hostel due to the fact that it had a really cool terrace, free breakfast and appeared to have really homely vibes. I have to say that I was NOT disappointed with our stay. In terms of hostels- this year I've stayed at a lot of them and can confidently say that this by far was the best one. I even met a guy in Bilbao who also ranked it his best hostel stay ever. Now I'm not being hyperbolic but this hostel had everything you could want. A very good selection for the free breakfast buffet, you could bring in your own alcohol, the common area was really spacious, they held nightly (free) flamenco shows, pub crawls and you had the option to sign up for free dinner (which we did most nights of course because we've still got that thrifty student mentality). Without a shadow of a doubt I would 100% recommend this hostel to anyone who is travelling through Sevilla. Despite the weather, we wandered around the winding streets surrounding our hostel, in the Santa Cruz neighbourhood and began to get a feel of Sevilla. Semana Santa is a huge deal in the South of Spain, particularly Sevilla. Even before we got into the centre of two we saw a lot of people dressed in what I could only liken to Ku Klux Klan style attire. Now as a young black female, my first instinct was of course not to approach them. However, as I learned later on, these people were not part of a far right terrorist Christian extremist group (thank God) but they were in fact called Nazarenos and they preceded the KKK. This type of clothing, although initially quite startling, is not affiliated at all with the former group. Men, children and women are clothed in these robes and pointed hats, and the Nazarenos are actually quite harmless. They bear huge crosses and march through the streets in large parades. Throughout the day we were often caught at crossroads and streets which were cordoned off in order to allow the processions pass. During our stay we were lucky enough to see at least two processions, both of which were a peculiar thing to see on a Saturday morning. The decadence, detail and immense amount of jewels and gold on view was dazzling. People were brought to either tears or a stand still watching statues of Christ on the cross or floats carrying pure gold furniture and ornaments. I too was quite moved by the displays. I would say that if you do plan to visit during this time period, be aware that a lot of roads are closed off and give yourself ample time to get to A-B because you never know when you'll get caught up in a procession. Image of Los Nazarenos by Joaquín Sorolla (Valencian artist) We also were able to take part in a free Sandeman's walking tour via the hostel the following day. Despite the clouds and a smattering of rain, our guide made it thoroughly enjoyable. She took us on an amazing tour of the old town as well as parts of the city we wouldn't even think to stop and visit. We passed the cathedral and tower, the old Tobacco factory, churches and many winding pathways. I will always recommend Sandeman's if you want to do a free tour- granted you pay what you think the tour is worth but I've done them in Lisbon, Sevilla, Madrid and Barcelona and loved every single one of them. This tour ended in Plaza España which was somewhere I'd bookmarked as a must see for some time now. It is truly stunning. The bright yellow and mandarin shades and the beautiful arches, bridges and tiled pathways make it truly awe-some. I could spend hours there, and during my three hour layover in Sevilla a few weeks ago I made it a priority to visit again. You can't go to Sevilla without seeing it and there's no excuse because its well connected and free! Also pass through the Parque Maria Luisa, which is stunning and a perfect picnic spot on a summers day. The Cathedral and it’s Tower “La Giralda” Plaza España Later that day we also climbed the Torre de Oro, which is a former maritime tower. Within it there is a small museum which exhibits Spain's marine conquest. The best part is the view from the top of the tower of course. We also went to see a flamenco show at the 'Museo de baile Flameco'. Now I won't lie to you, I had seen better flamenco. It wasn't that the performers weren't any good, on the contrary I feel like they were too polished. For me it lacked passion and intensity. Yes they were dancing with fortitude but it felt too rigid. The first time I'd seen flamenco was in Madrid, it was in a small bar on a tiny stage. The dancers had limited space yet they were able convey pain, sadness, remorse- anything they felt I felt too. However in this recent performance the dancers didn't convey their emotions to me. However, from one dancer to another, I still thought that the dancing was technically fantastic and the costuming was beautifully crafted- particularly the flamenco skirts. This is just one example of flamenco show and there are countless bars and performers in the city, perhaps we were just unlucky that night or maybe my expectations were too high. Despite this, I do urge you to see a flamenco show in Sevilla, it would be like going to Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower or Rome without the Colosseum. If you're looking for good view points in the city, I would highly recommend that you visit Las Setas. This piece of architecture is largely divisive in opinion amongst Sevillanos. It is definitely modern and nothing like anything you've seen in the city. It reminded me of the City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia. You get amazing views from the top, overlooking the whole of Sevilla and there's even a cafe on the roof which you can visit- we were able to get a discount on drinks with our entry ticket. Views from Las Setas It’s also worth paying a trip over the bridge into the Triana neighbourhood which was formerly the Jewish quarter. There were a lot of restaurants and bars as well as beautifully coloured walls and houses. It's a nice contrast to the Santa Cruz neighbourhood and has a less crowded vibe. The crowing glory of Sevilla had to be the Real Alcazar. As I mentioned earlier, we began and ended our trip in Sevilla. Initially it was simply impossible to visit the Real Alcazar, which had been recently popularised due to it being a filming location on Game of Thrones. During Semana Santa the entry queues stretched around the main plaza and we would have wasted half a day before we got anywhere near the entrance. So we booked our tickets in advance a few days before when we were in Granada and dedicated our final day to exploring. It was a stroke of luck that we had gorgeous sunny weather that day. It was bright and the air was fresh and we strolled through the gardens leisurely. The grounds are vast and I would definitely advise that you spend at least 3-4 hours hours here to truly capture the essence of the grounds. It's saturated with history and culture, a definite highlight of our trip. So that was pretty much everything we did in Sevilla, normally I would have more foodie recommendations but a lot of the time we were eating either at the hostel or making our own packed lunches, which is a great way to cut down on costs. This is the first instalment of three on my blog dedicated to the Andalusian region which has truly captured my heart. the next post in the collection will focus on the beautiful town of Cordoba.

I don’t know if many, or anybody had noticed but you’ve had a bit of radio silence from me during the month of May. I suppose you could say that I've had some kind of writer's block. The first few weeks of May were so optimistic for me; I had a month left at my school, I had my first solo trip to Lisbon planned as well as a weekend away in Northern Morocco and Algerciras with my best friend. My friend Bridie was coming to visit,I'd planned a killer Eurovision party and of course spending a lot of time with friends who I wasn’t sure I’d see for a while. I had so many plans, so much to look forward to. But it didn’t pan out the way that I’d foreseen it. Despite writing so earnestly and personally on my blog, when it comes to more sensitive and familial topics I tend to steer away from talking about them. When other people are involved I find it best to not speak on their behalf; unless I have their consent of course. Now, as it’s been building up inside for a while, I feel like I can talk about what has been going on. On Thursday 9th May I remember coming home from my working day at school, and for some reason I was in such a spritely mood, more so than usual. I was heading on my first solo trip to Lisbon that night- I’d never travelled internationally before on my own and I’d booked this trip a long time ago and still couldn’t believe that the day had come. I almost skipped out of school because I was so excited. On my way home I’d even bought some new Spanish books for the trip and called my dad- like I always do, just to check in on him and have a catch up. He told he needed to speak to me about something once I got in my flat. I didn’t really think anything of it. I sent off my TLRP proposal and was fixing some lunch when I saw it on Facebook. I have to say that finding out bad news via social media is always the worst- I don’t think it’s appropriate and most of the time it’s insensitive. I went into a state of shock, half for the news and half from the way that I found out. I wasn’t expecting to receive the news that my granddad had passed away, especially in that way. For some background, I had always known that my granddad was ill. He had multiple illnesses, including different types of cancer but he never complained, and never once said outright that he was in pain. I will always remember his kind demeanour; he was such a joker- never serious and always trying to make me laugh. He was a man of few words but what he said was also thoughtful. I’d never experienced death this close to me before. I’ve had people who I’ve known who have died but I never thought that I would experience loss. I know I’m coming from a place of privilege here because I had the pleasure of having a granddad for 21 years. In my mind I’d kind of created this idea that my grandparents were going to live forever. As delusional as that may be, I just assumed that they were going to be around for a long time. I’m also sad to say that I wasn’t worried about my granddad. Out of all of my grandparents, I didn’t believe that I was going to lose him so soon or so suddenly. When I was home in April, I had wanted to see him- I always make the effort to see my grandparents every time I’m at home because I’m aware of how precious time is. Yet when I was heading back to Spain, I realized that I still hadn’t seen him. My dad said not to worry and I comforted myself with the fact that I would see him again in June when I came back. Then, I found out that he was in hospital. Both my dad and I thought that he’d be coming home soon, so again I wasn’t too worried. My granddad was a fighter. He’d been battling for so many years that I just thought that he’d battle through this one too. Unfortunately I was wrong and in the end he was just very tired, too tired to keep on fighting. This is what brings me onto gratitude. I’m grateful for the final phone call that I had with him a week before he passed away. He took of his breathing mask and spoke to me so clearly- it was like talking to him normally. He seemed so jovial, still cracking jokes and being as cheeky as ever. I still didn’t understand the severity of the situation because I didn’t see it with my own eyes. I still thought he would be coming home. I then had this cloud of grief hanging over me for the whole month, as the funeral wasn’t scheduled until the end of May due to external circumstances. I had a lot of decisions to make- I didn’t want to go on the trip that night anymore, nor have the Eurovision party that I’d been frantically dreaming of. I just wanted to go home and have a hug from my mum and dad. They told me that my granddad wouldn’t want me to be sat in my flat alone, he’d want me to do all of the things that I’d planned. I still wasn’t convinced. But then it came to me, the idea that I could do all of those things, but do it in his memory. Despite how painful it felt in the moment. Even in our last conversation, he was still in awe that I’d been travelling, and of all of my future plans. So I packed my bag and went on my trip to Lisbon. It was the hardest trip of my life, because I was doing it on my own- I only knew two people there and I didn’t even have a plan. I did find that despite the arduousness of the trip it was one of the most rewarding and reflective ones I’ve had. In time I think I’ll write about it in greater depth. The month of May itself carried on as usual. Since my grandfather’s death, I’ve become more aware of time. Especially how it doesn’t wait for anyone. When I found out about my grandfather’s passing it felt like time stopped for a minute, then all of a sudden things carried on. The world didn’t stop spinning; the clocks didn’t stop chiming- people carried on with their lives. I realised that you do have to keep going, that’s what my granddad did despite everything. He was such a kind and hard-working man. He instilled a work ethic in me, in all of us, which I’ll never forget. He endured racism, discrimination- so many challenges in his life, yet he still viewed life though a humorous and carefree perspective- something, which I have and will always, admire. Even though he was very poorly he still drove his car, ran his business and was a carer for his partner, all at the age of 85! That is why I’m so grateful that I got to know him, that I have the memories, that I’m able to say thank you for teaching me how to be strong and to always work hard. I don’t know if the pain will ever truly go away and I still haven’t quite accepted that you’ve gone yet but I do know that, regardless of my faith or beliefs, you’re going to be there always watching over me, and I’m going to do everything in my power to keep going and make you proud. Love you forever granddad

Dear Tash, (and whoever else needs to read this) I want to start this letter by saying that you are loved. You have come such a long way this year. From someone who hated taking trains you’re out here taking flights left right and centre. You have overcome one of the worst bouts of depression that you have ever experienced. You are learning to manage your anxiety everyday and are taking things in you stride. 10 months into a 14-month long adventure and you’re still going. You should be proud of yourself. But first and foremost you need to be kinder to yourself. As great as you are, you aren’t superwoman. You are prone to burnout and you can only push yourself so far. No one will be disappointed in you if you take a day off, don’t publish a blog post in a while or if you sit in your pyjamas and watch Jane the Virgin all day. I know you, your worst fear is being seen as a failure, seen as incapable and disappointing the people that you love. But, I can tell you for a fact that the people around you, who really know, love and care about you, who read your blog, are already proud of you and how far you’ve come. What I want to say in this letter is that the opinions of others do not dictate the person that you are and will become. You don’t take critique too well, but you’re learning. You base your self-worth on the value of how others see you- or rather, how you perceive them seeing you. Forget that. You need to take your own advice; what do you always tell other people? Back yourself. You need to do that more too. This year, you have met people who have made you feel so loved, happy and appreciative. And, on the flipside you’ve also met people who made you feel crap about yourself, made you question your worth, value and standards. Never compromise on your standards. Yes you, like everyone else, have superficial preferences, but we both know that at the core, you want and deserve someone who treats you with respect, love and care and treats you like an equal. You aren’t asking for the world, and if someone doesn’t meet those requirements then they aren’t for you. Don’t let anyone dupe you into believing you’re the problem- that your standards are too high, unattainable and that you’re asking too much. Equally, you need to meet those requirements too. You, first and foremost, are the most important person in your life. The relationship that you build with yourself lasts a lifetime. I know it sounds corny, but you need to take all of those traits and qualities and apply them to you own relationship with yourself. You need to treat yourself with care, be kind to yourself: learn to say no and uphold the values that are so dear to you. You already do this 80% of the time and I’m proud of the progress you have made- but you need to believe it all the time. You are great at giving advice to others, but you also need to take your own advice. Never let anyone make you feel less than you are. It is a lesson that we continue to develop and hone throughout our lives and it won’t come overnight. But, we will get there. Don’t overanalyse, don’t try to get into the minds of other people- just stay in your lane, focus on yourself and you will continue to grow and blossom. As much as you have this unquenchable desire to be liked by everyone, it simply isn’t possible. Yeah, I think you’re great but not everyone will- and that’s okay. Shake it off and let it go, you don’t like everyone in the world so how on earth can you expect it to work the other way around. So remember, never compromise on what is important to you, trust your instincts and of course, stay excellent. From, Tash

As some of you may have guessed from my previous blog-posts, I love Madrid. The first time I visited I was instantaneously encapsulated by it and it kind of felt like everything fell into place. Don’t get me wrong, I do love Valencia, it’s a gorgeous city filled with lots to do, but I’ve realised this year that I’m more of a capital cities girl myself. After having lived in Paris, Manchester, Durham and now Valencia I can confidently say that I’m like a firefly; attracted to the bright city lights, the hustle and bustle, and cramped metros which smell like pee yet so much culture beyond that. But in terms of visiting places, I love the smaller hidden gems; old towns with cobbled streets, villages with floral walkways, nooks and alcoves. I wanted to go back to Madrid again in spring, just to make sure that I didn't fall for it because of the twinkling Christmas lights and the fervour of it being my first solo trip. Last time I spent four whole days in the capital and I swear I could have stayed even longer. However, a lot of people told me to visit the nearby town of Toledo, which used to be the capital of Spain before Madrid came on the scene. It’s rich in culture- like most of Spain- yet is the religious epicentre of the modern Spanish world, boasting a mosque, cathedral and synagogue as its most eye-catching landmarks, each equipped with its own distinctive history and cultural impact. I didn’t have time to visit during my November trip but I was determined to see the two cities before I left Spain. Besides, now I’m much more well-travelled and comfortable heading places on my own so- I booked my bus and train ticket and planned to spend 2 ½ days in the centre of Spain. This was to be my first experience with taking the bus for a long-distance journey. Up until a few months ago, I could barely muster up the courage to take trains let alone buses. But it’s price over comfort so I decided to do the four-hour journey, and I guessed that I’d probably sleep through most of it (which I did- of course I did, this is me we’re talking about). I stayed in the hostel that I was in last time- OK Hostel, which is much better than just ‘ok’. I would HIGHLY recommend it because the staff were so nice (and they remembered me from last time). I was able to get involved in the social side of the hostel and they made me feel included which I was truly grateful for. I also found it easy to chat with different types of people there and I made friends with a group of German students who were on a field trip and even learned a few more German curse words too... The next day, I’d gotten used to bus life and decided to take the short 40-minute trip to Toledo. I love to plan and organise so I made a list of the landmarks and possible things that I could see. I was told that one day would be enough to truly capture the essence of this city. Before I even got to the first landmark I found myself at one of the many viewpoints in the city, the Mirador del Valle. From here, I had an amazing view of the whole of Toledo. You don’t even have to look for them just keep on walking out of the station and you too, like me, will stumble upon one. The first order of the day was the Alcázar of Toledo, which also doubled up as the military museum. Now I’m a pacifist and have no interest in learning about warfare tactics nor military regalia yet I do appreciate the fact that the museum is extremely informative and if you’re into that kind of thing I would recommend it- also it is free for students which is always a hidden bonus. The Alcázar itself had a large courtyard with a beautiful cascading staircase- perfect for getting those “insta” shots- and a nice break from all of the armour and warfare imagery. My next stop was the world-famous cathedral. One thing that I hadn’t counted on was the fact that it would be 12€ entry! Now, I’ve travelled a bit and seen my fair share of cathedrals- so I figured that I could skip this one. That was until I found an unexpected loophole- you can enter a sectioned-off part of the cathedral which is reserved for ‘worship’. You can enter for free, take a few photos (say a prayer if you wish) and then continue with your day. If there’s anything more I love than travelling it’s bargain (I definitely take after my mother in that regard). On another unexpected turn, I found myself in a torture museum. Now I know you’re probably thinking ‘How does this girl go from one of the most sacred places in the world to a torture exhibition’? This was perhaps one of the most expensive things I did in Toledo. It cost me 4,50€ but was perhaps one of the most enjoyable parts of the trip (without sounding like a sadomasochist). I learned all about the Spanish Inquisition and how people were punished for the slightest things. People were seriously messed up to come up with these punishments but leaving the exhibition I felt like I’d just remediated on the human psyche and how the heck they can be simultaneously that creative yet messed up. To distract myself I wandered on to a cute restaurant which served an amazing menu del día: bread, a glass of wine, a noodle salad for starters and baked salmon for main all for 12€. Good food + hearty portions + bargain prices = happy Tash. At the start of this year, I found it really hard to eat out on my own. Breakfast and lunch aren’t so bad but I still get quite anxious when dining out alone during the evening. I always feel like people are staring at me, maybe even judging me for being alone. The one thing I have to say is ‘forget that’- we as humans are perhaps some of the most self-centred and self-absorbed creatures on the planet- I mean look at our environmental crisis right now and the mess we’ve got ourselves in. If you ever feel like that I can assure you that, people are NOT watching you at all they don’t even care about what you’re doing. They’re probably too engrossed- or they should be in their own conversations and meals to worry about what you’re doing. So sit back, relax and tuck into that good sweet food! Good food + hearty portions + bargain prices = Happy Tash. I literally rolled out of the restaurant door because I was so full- however, I was stuffed and content, ready to continue on my own mini pilgrimage. I stopped off at another smaller church- which I had to pay 3€ to enter. Immediately I knew I’d made a bad choice. It wasn’t on my list of landmarks to see but at the same time, I wanted to head off the beaten track a bit. Nope- bad choice- which I won't elaborate on further. Needless to say, I learned that sometimes it's better to stay on track. It was now 27 degrees outside (yup global warming again) and I needed some shelter. So I decided to visit the Santa María Blanca Synagogue. I’d mooched around the Jewish quarter for a little bit, allowing myself to divert from my map and wander leisurely through the winding streets. The Synagogue was beautifully decorated, extremely spacious yet not overly decorated that it felt ‘too’ much. The last time I went to a synagogue was when I was in year 7 and we did a school trip. Young and naive I didn’t really ‘get’ the cultural significance- especially since Manchester has a rich Jewish history and community. Now older and (hopefully) wiser I really appreciated seeing the contrast between the cathedral (despite the restricted view I had) and the synagogue. It occurred to me that regardless of faith, religious places put a lot of time and thought into the aesthetics of their place of worship. Irrespective of religious beliefs (or lack of) I really felt at peace in both main religious landmarks and the fact that both are encouraged as landmarks proves to me that yes- religion can co-exist if anything Toledo represents that completely. I decided to wander again and came across something that was on my list yet not a priority for me to see- el Museo del Greco. El Greco was an important figure in the Spanish Renaissance. Now my interests in art lie mainly with modern and street art yet I decided to give it a go- again it was free and I had a bit of time to kill. Whilst the artwork wasn’t exactly to my taste I was enormously impressed by the architecture and surroundings of the museum, which is centred in El Greco’s former house. Beneath the house are some amazing caves, which are free to see as well as an impressive garden boasting a varied floral collection. On a warm spring day, sitting in the garden was really what I needed, providing a moment of repose after a long day of walking. I only had a few more hours in Toledo before my bus back to Madrid and I decided to visit the famous Puente de San Martín, which had been recommended to me for its panoramic views. On the way I was able to pass through the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (which Google had informed me was closed) yet again, I managed to sneak in via the ‘worship’ route (don’t judge me). The viewpoint from the bridge was amazing and I of course had to get a few photos. On my way to my final stop which was another mark on my list- the Puerta de Bisagra and Puerta del Sol, which were the old city gates. They were located on the other side of the town so I had to hot step up the hills and winding roads to reach it before heading back to Madrid. On my way, I had hoped to pass by the mosque and complete the trinity of religious grounds. However, for some reason, the mosque was closed by the time I reached it in the early evening. Nonetheless, from the outside, it looked beautiful and I would recommend that you visit what I’m dubbing the “Big Three” if you ever visit Toledo. So, my final thoughts on Toledo, I really liked it. I was there for approximately 9 hours and was able to see 95% of everything that I had planned on seeing. The town reminded me of my student town Durham with its hills and cobbled streets- everyone was so friendly and it felt completely safe to be travelling there alone as a young female. It’s definitely a day trip rather than a complete weekend- unless you really like to take your time to see places. I would definitely recommend that you give Toledo a try- it really is the hidden jewel of the centre of Spain.

March was a busy month for me. I realised that I explored a lot of central Spain, travelling every other weekend to Madrid, Cuenca and Toledo (more travel guides coming soon). I thought that I’d put pen to paper (figuratively) and tell you all about my experiences there. After being cooped up in Valencia of February due to dwindling funds(thanks Spanish Government for not paying me on time) I decided that March was going to be a heavy month of travelling. The number one destination on my list was the city of Zaragoza in the Aragon region. Why Zaragoza you ask? Well this year I have to complete a 2,500 word project in Spanish of my choosing and for some reason I was set on penning a piece on the influence of Arabic and Moorish influence in Modern Spain. Until I found out that this was a monster of a project- a topic that could easily be turned into a master’s thesis so I decided to head in a completely different direction and find something a little less mind-boggling. Nevertheless Zaragoza is one of the few cities in Spain outside of the Andalusia region with an Moorish landmark that is still relatively well preserved; the Aljafería. I was determined to see it, even if I was writing about something totally unrelated to this topic. In true Damon and Jo fashion I decided to shut up and go, booking my hostel and train as soon as my pay check landed in my bank account. Two days later I was off- on a FIVE hour train journey to Zaragoza. My trip almost didn’t happen due to my terrible time keeping as I made my train with literally 30 seconds to spare. Have you ever seen that crazy person running through the train station or airport? Hair flailing in their face, sweating and panting as they lug their case behind them? Yeah, I was that person that Friday morning. After having narrowly avoided an asthma attack I had a whole five hours to get comfortable and catch my breath. However in typical Tash fashion I again almost didn’t make it to Zaragoza. Due to a miscommunication I almost ended up on another twohour train journey destined for Huelva had I not managed to jump off at the next stop. Despite all of my bumbling I managed to make it to my hostel- miraculously- in one piece. I stayed at the Albergue Zaragoza ( I would recommend for short breaks) for the very cheap price of 16€ per night. As soon as I’d put my things away I descended on the city and went to see one of main tourist attractions- la Basílica de Nuestra Señora and the main Plaza. It truly is an astonishing sight to see, the brightly coloured tiles accompanied by the soothing sound of the fountain- it really is the main attraction of the city. Day 1 sightseeing Rating scale: ✪: Very poor, not even worth seeing ✪✪: Poor, had potential but didn't quite make the cut- I wouldn't recommend it personally. ✪✪✪: Good, I enjoyed aspects of this place/ experience but it was lacking something ✪✪✪✪: Very good I enjoyed this place/thong- I would recommend ✪✪✪✪✪: Oh my God- it is unmissable- You HAVE TO SEE THIS. 100% recommend to everyone- including your nan! Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar Price: Free entry Is it worth it? Yes 100% definitely go if you have some time How long to spend there? No more than 30 minutes Special tip? Try to go early in the morning- there is a tower you can climb and you can get AMAZING views of the whole of Zaragoza. Rating: ✪✪✪✪ Despite not being really religious I do really enjoy visiting places of worship- I’m always mesmerised by the architecture and elaborate detailing in the fabrics and tiling. The Basilica was free entry- surprisingly- but taking photos was strongly advised against. That didn’t mean I didn’t try. I have a thing for elaborate ceilings and this one did not disappoint. Cathedral del Salvador de Zaragoza: Price: 4€ (no student discount ☹) Is it worth it? Yes- even if you’re not into cathedrals and it’s a nice accompaniment to the basilica. How long to spend there? 30- 40 minutes- get your 4€ worth. Also take your time reading through the descriptions- you can learn a lot about general Zaragoza history there. Special tip? You didn’t hear it from me but its not too hard to sneak a photo or too in there… Rating: ✪✪✪✪ Located just across the Plaza is the Cathedral. I had to pay about 4€ which isn’t bank breaking. and as soon as I entered I understood why. The maintenance needed to keep it as visually impressive as it is must cost a fortune. The Cathedral is stunning from the outside but the inside is even more captivating. It is separated into 23 sections- each altar is labelled with detailed historical descriptions which recount the significance of the architecture and who the works are consecrated to. Again no pictures allowed, but I can’t keep these photos to myself. On my way across the plaza I stumbled across this hidden alcove. I could see large figures looming in the distance so I decided to step in and take a closer look. It turns out it was an open exhibition on for that weekend showing the giant head figurines which are used in carnival. These gigantic figures stood at seven foot tall on wheels, all dressed in exuberant fabrics and gold masquerade masks. A passer-by noticed how bewildered I was and began to explain (in Spanish) the history of the figures and how they are featured every year during carnival and that they are depict biblical and historical figures. As a child I would have been absolutely petrified of these looming figures but now that I’m older I saw them as bewitching curiosity. La Lonja de Zaragoza Price: Free entry Is it worth it? Yes, there are new exhibitions on all the time featuring new and upcoming artists. How long to spend there? Take as long as you want- the space isn’t that big so I would say maybe 30-45 minutes Special tip? Don’t forget to pick up an information guide- it provides more information of the artist’s background as well as future events. It’s also closed on Mondays Rating: ✪✪✪✪✪ La Lonja functions as an exhibition hall. The renaissance architecture contrasted with the modern art exhibitions makes you want to take photos not only of the exhibited work but also of the building itself. This place is easy to miss and I myself walked past it numerous times due to the fact that it observes siesta hours (2pm-5pm). Nonetheless, whilst you’re in the plaza you should definitely have a quick look. Whilst I was in Zaragoza there were three main exhibitions on show: an exhibition showcasing the work of female photographers in the Aragonese region and the second was another photographic exhibition highlighting the aftermath of war and poverty. I really enjoyed it- definitely a hidden gem which is underrated. Goya Museum: Collection Ibercaja Price: 6€ regular but 3€ with the carnet jove or a student card Is it worth it? For me it was very hit and miss- if you’re a fan of Goya I would recommend but his most famous and recognisable works are showcased at the Prado museum in Madrid (Satan devouring his son, The third of May 1808). However, they do have another smaller exhibition showcasing modern, local artists, which I found super interesting. How long to spend there? I spent around an hour but that was mainly to kill time- there are five levels so I would say take your time. Special tip? Start on level -1 as there is a video, which explains a little more about Goya and provides essential background information (however it is in Spanish with no subtitles so if you don’t speak the language you might struggle a little) Rating: ✪✪✪ Day two was the main event for me. I had planned to spend the morning at the Aljafería and it did not disappoint. Palacio de la Aljafería Price: 5€ (2€ for holders of a student card) Is it worth it? Yes Yes Yes 100%- it the best part of my trip! How long to spend there? I spent at least 2 hours there- it is a vast space as it’s a fortified palace. I can guarantee that you’ll be awe-struck staring at the ornate ceilings. Special tip? They have a free app that you can download which is packed with lots of information about the architecture and the historical pieces on display. Rating: ✪✪✪✪✪ I’m a history buff- especially when it comes to the Moors in Spain. They are such a significant role in shaping modern Spain in all factors- language, food, architecture, religion- everything. In any Spanish city I’m in I always look for glimpses of their traces and this palace surpassed all of my expectations. I would recommend that everyone goes to see it- the architecture is breath-taking and it is a must see if you’re ever in Zaragoza. El Tubo Price: €-€€€ it depends where you want decide to sit and eat. There are restaurants and bars that fit everyone’s budget. In Spain you don’t need to break the bank to have a good meal. Is it worth it? Yes 100% definitely go if you have some time How long to spend there? It’s nice to go there for evening drinks or a little rest break during the day- maybe an hour or so. You could spend your whole afternoon there though, snacking and drinking on a hot sunny day. Special tip? Try to go during a quieter time period- Saturday lunchtime probably wasn’t the best time to visit but I saw it at its peak capacity! Also try and get a menu del día, these usually include two dishes, a coffee or dessert and either drink or starter from anywhere between 9€ to 15€. Rating: ✪✪✪✪ Manchester has the Northern Quarter and Spinningfields, Valencia has El Carmen and Russafa and Zaragoza has El Tubo. This a collection of winding streets in the old town filled with bars, cafes and restaurants. I’ve been told that its electric on a Saturday night and really comes alive during the evenings. The vibe was still even more fun and welcoming on Saturday lunchtime too. If you’re travelling in a group there are a lot of terraces and open beer gardens, which looked quite inexpensive but still a place with chilled vibes. El Parque Expo Zaragoza Price: Free Is it worth it? 50/50 its quite a way to get there by foot but it has some cool exhibitions. How long to spend there? As its in open space you can wander leisurely at your own pace Special tip? Maybe rent a bike ride along the river to get there- it’s a lot quicker than walking and a great way to do some more sightseeing Rating: ✪✪✪✪ I wanted to see the former International expo in Zaragoza. On the train ride there I had read that is something that is usually overlooked by tourists because it is located quite far away from the other tourist sites. Granted, it is on the other side of the town and quite a walk to get there- but if you go on a warm summers day like I did it's worth it. In 2008 Zaragoza hosted this international expo and even today some of the work is available to see for passers by. So what are my conclusions for Zaragoza? Despite being there for only 27 hours I really enjoyed the trip. The hardest part was the five hour train journey (one way) so if you are coming from Valencia do pack things to keep you entertained or even take a bla bla car . Don’t do what I did and hotspot your laptop for the whole journey- hence majorly going over your monthly data limit! Zaragoza is a really cool city, I believe it’s the fifth biggest in Spain. Eve though I spent little time there I feel like I saw the main monuments and got a really good feel for the city. If I were to go again I would stay for a full weekend and see the local markets on Sunday as well as explore the Caixaforum. Overall I give Zaragoza a ✪✪✪✪ - not a city to be missed if you’re travelling through central/ northern Spain.

I’m a people pleaser. I always have been- but I don’t want to be forever. For a long time the word ‘no’ seemed to evade my vocabulary. You may have noticed that my blog’s fundamental message is learning to say Yes to opportunities. Somewhere amongst the pandering to people and putting others interests before my own- I somehow lost myself. I hate saying ‘no’ to people- especially my friends. "No" equates to disappointing people. The past month I’ve had many different experiences which have allowed me to learn how to say no- I now know that it isn’t a dirty word and that often it may be required to keep our mental health in balance. Learning to not give a F**k Last month I started reading Sarah Knight’s “The Life changing magic of not giving a f**k”. Despite the language of the book not being too difficult- the self- reflective element was tiring. I had to pick apart the things which I overanalyse in my day to day life; forcing me to look inwards and ask myself "Why do I care what my high-school friends think of me?'" or “why does it bother me so much that Spanish people stare so much?”. A wave of guilt arose within me- I didn’t realise how much I cared about other people’s opinions of me. I read somewhere that it isn’t my responsibility to care about what people think of me. Its true- I have no influence of changing people’s opinions on me. I like who I am; I’m starting to like my imperfections and the things that make me ‘Tash’. For the longest time I always imagined ways that I could improve or rather change myself- most of the time it meant altering inherent personality traits and characteristics unique to me. I’ve never been a follower or a sheep- my mother instilled in me the importance of being true to yourself and being your own person. Throughout my adolescence and early twenties I’ve been struggling with that- but now I feel like I’m coming to a point of inner peace in myself. I shouldn’t have to- or want to- change anything about myself, especially not to satisfy the opinions of others. "it isn’t my responsibility to care about what people think of me" I used to worry that I would annoy people by posting about my blog- I didn’t want to come across as needy or desperate- god forbid begging people to read the posts! Of course I want people to read my work, its something that takes a lot of time to cultivate. I want to share my passion, my stories and experiences- its natural. A lot of people don’t realise the hours- yes multiple hours- it takes or write and edit a 5-7 minute post; to add photos, videos and weblinks. This isn’t a "woe is me situation" and I'm still extremely grateful to those who do to the take to read my blog. It isn’t a job or a chore for me- it's a hobby which I’ve decided to invest in and share with you all. This isn’t shading anyone who doesn’t read my blog either- I get it, my writing may not be to everyone’s taste or that my topics may be too niche and I’m well aware that sometimes my posts- like this one- take a while to read. That’s okay, what I have learned that it isn’t personal when someone may choose not to click on my posts. Even if it is personal- if they choose to ignore my work because they have a personal issue with me, I know for a fact that it isn’t my problem- it’s on them to deal with that. Saying no to friends As humans we seem to disregard our mental health in a flippant manner. We don’t equate a broken arm with someone dealing with depression or anxiety. One of my favourite quotes, which I’ve found this year is ‘You’ve got to nourish to flourish’ and it’s so true. We understand that our bodies are precious- we only get one in life. We take the time to exercise and eat well, drink water and try and get enough sleep per night. Even if we don’t follow these guidelines accordingly we at least know that we should do these things in order to follow a healthy life . Whereas in terms of our mental health these rules simply don’t apply. We wouldn’t surround ourselves in a room full of poisonous chemicals if we knew they could do irreparable damage to our bodies, why do we surround ourselves with toxic people who do the same thing to our mental health? ‘Toxic’ is a strong adjective but what I mean is toxic people are those who damage your mental health and don’t bring anything positive to your life. As a kid I was so good at ‘cutting’ people out of my life- almost too good. I let go of friendships too easily- if someone did something, which I deemed ‘unforgivable’ to me, they would be gone in a flash. However for years I would hold onto a sense of resentment, unable to forgive and forget; something which was more damaging to my mental health. Hence why my friendship group of ‘good’ friends is extremely small. I like it that way because I have a lot of acquaintances and people that I’ve met along the way but my true friends know who they are. As I’ve grown up I’m learning that cutting people flat out isn’t always the best approach- so I’ve started to adopted a three strikes and you’re out method. It may seem harsh but as I mature I am learning that my time and energy is valuable- friendship is something that I truly invest in. I try to be emotionally available for my friends- I give my best advice when they’re in their time of need, I want to spend time with them- I give them everything. What I’ve learned is that sometimes I give too much of myself away. I’m not a perfect friend but I give my all and try to be the best person I can be. I would describe myself as an Empath. According to Merrim-Webster an Empath is: one who experiences the emotions of others: a person who has empathy for others. Naturally we are all Empaths in one capacity or another- however I’ve found that I go beyond understanding someone’s emotions- I subconsciously start to take them on and this isn’t always the best thing- especially when I’m trying to help friends with their mental health. My mental health can be fragile at times too, I go through episodes of depression and my anxiety is omnipresent in one way, shape or form. It becomes debilitating when I’m trying to help friends who are in depressive states- I don’t mean to allow myself to get so deeply involved but sometimes I can’t help it. an Empath is: one who experiences the emotions of others: a person who has empathy for others. I have one specific friend that I really struggle with this. I find it difficult to separate my own issues from theirs. I would say that our relationship has significantly shifted since we started university- its due to the fact that we study in different cities, my interest have changed and so has my attitude. I would say that a few years ago I would bend over backwards for them- I only wanted the best for this person and I wanted to help when they was struggling with their mental health. This went on for a few years- they would call me whenever they felt low and I would be there straight away- I would rack my brain for solutions, chastise them when they weren’t taking their medication- I became in a way kind of like a confidante and support system. It drained me mentally and when my own bouts of depression came and went I wanted to make sure that I was always there for that person. I then realised that this friend only seemed to want my support when they were in times of crisis- I would send lots of unopened unread messages, they never asked how I was doing, nor would randomly would message me to check in on me. My friendship wasn’t being reciprocated. They only called me when they wanted something. This person isn’t a fundamentally bad person, they just took my kindness for granted and that isn’t friendship. So I came to a natural crossroads- do I cut this person out or do I give them another chance? That’s when the three strikes rule applies. My mind-set also reached a crossroad because I learned that cutting out people doesn’t resolve anything, instead you have to create a distance. Learning to separate myself from the person and their issues is a big part of saying ‘no’. I always try and make sure that the person I’m checking in with knows that I’m there- but also I am not their babysitter, I’m not their mum or counsellor- I’m their friend and a person too with my own issues. It’s damaging to relationships when you put a lot on one person, even if you don’t realise that you’re doing it. Saying ‘no’ this this person doesn’t translate to ‘No, I don’t care about you and your problems’ or ‘no I don’t want to help you anymore’. What I mean to say is that ‘I can no longer give all of my energy to you completely right now, I need to take time for myself and prioritise my mental health right now. I love you and care about you but I need to change my perspective about this situation’. If that person makes you feel guilty for making sure your mental health is in check then maybe you shouldn’t surround yourself with them. Paulo Coelho, the author of ‘The Alchemist’ puts it perfectly ‘When you say yes to others make sure that you are not saying no to yourself’. I recently commented about this on an Instagram story, I never want it to appear that I’m indirecting or shading someone- these affirmations are a reminder to myself that I can always do better, be better and take care of myself. I learned that cutting out people doesn’t resolve anything- creating a distance is what is key. Sometimes I take on too much, I say yes before I think about the repercussions and I’m learning to change that. I always try and follow through on a promise however if I’ve pledged to do something with someone that I perhaps am not wholeheartedly committed to- I at times can become a little bit bitter. I hate this trait about myself- it is something learned and not inherent. This year has presented me with lots of pathways and challenges- some that I have navigated well- others not so well. Each time I get one step closer to learning to say ‘no, I cannot take this on right now and that’s okay’ or ‘no, this doesn’t benefit me or my mental health at the minute’. Putting yourself first sometimes isn’t the worst thing in the world; it isn’t selfish and it doesn’t mean that you’re lazy. On the contrary, listening to your body and mind enables you to make better decisions for future you. It is okay to take time for yourself, you can simultaneously be receptive of other people and their feelings but you must remember that you are the most important person in your life and you have to do what is first and foremost right for you. As much as I advocate for Ouisiyes-ing, it is also perfectly acceptable to say no occasionally.

If you’ve been following me on social media you’ll have probably been spammed with videos and images of fireworks and pyrotechnics for the past month on all of my platforms. In Valencia we’ve recently just celebrated ‘Las Fallas’, the annual spring festival and religious ceremony commemorating San José, which I’ve discovered is quite divisive amongst Valencians; who either love or loathe it. Initially, I too was a member of the distrustful camp and was secretly planning my getaway; hoping to use my six-day holiday as an opportunity to secure a cheap weekend mini-break. Nonetheless as the holiday approached I had a somewhat Grinch-like metamorphosis and started warming to the idea of this hedonistic holiday. This is the first of many guides that I’m hoping to collate this year and although I live in Valencia I’m going to impart some of my insider knowledge in the hopes that at least one person will decide to visit Valencia during Fallas. You may be asking yourself “Hold on Tash, what exactly is Fallas?” To be succinct, Fallas is a five day festival held annually in Valencia City and its surrounding pueblos between the 15th and the 19th of March. However, the festivities begin a lot earlier than this; you will notice that the roads surreptitiously are decorated overnight with Valencian flags, children feverishly dart around clutching firecrackers and each weekend there is yet another firework display. All of these subtle changes begin during the month of February. “Hold on Tash, what exactly is Fallas? I must preface this article by saying that if you: a) have a weak nervous system b) are a light sleeper c) are adverse to large crowds and loud noises then I can guarantee that Fallas is NOT for you. Thanks to this festival I have now acquired nerves of steel and am no longer unhinged at the sound of a bombardment fireworks- which are usually reminiscent of a bomb disposal unit. One thing that I have learned over these past few weeks is that Las Fallas is not only a celebration- Las Fallas is a way of life. So without further ado here is my list of Dos and Don’ts regarding how to truly embrace the festivities that are Fallas. Las Fallas is a way of life. Step one: How to do Fallas the right way DO: • See a Mascletá From the beginning of March at 2pm there are daily mascletás held in the Plaza Ayunamiento. This is the epicentre of Valencia and despite the spectacle only lasting on average between 5-7 minutes all hell breaks lose. I had never heard of a mascletá before moving to Valencia- but now I have DEFINITLEY heard them. They are a form of fireworks/ firecrackers during the day. The bright lights can be seen fluttering in the sky during the daytime before a screen of smoke swiftly eclipses them. Brightly coloured smoke is used for special effects- for example the mascletá for International women’s Day used a special purple smoke in order to stand in solidarity with the movement. It’s hard to explain a mascletá- you kind of need to be there to truly experience it. I have seen people become induced with goose bumps, or become teary-eyed and overcome with emotion because the vibrations are so impactful. o Do get there early if you want to get a good view (for the final mascletá we arrived almost two hours early- perhaps a little excessive but we also had an amazing spot). I would aim to arrive 20 minutes beforehand during the week. The first few mascletás usually aren’t too crowded but at the weekend of Fallas it’s almost impossible to see them if you don’t set off in advance. o Do wear a hat or cap if you are in close proximity to the mascletá as debris does tend to fall. o Do open your mouth when watching them. This sounds like an odd tip however I promise that you’ll thank me later. When I first saw a mascletá I thought ‘Wow, everyone is so in awe of the show’- well I wasn’t completely wrong. Yes, its true that a lot of people do become overwhelmed by it all but the main reason they look like goldfish is because opening your mouth helps reduce the possibility of bursting your eardrums. The mascletá is so loud that you may find your ears ringing afterwards. DO NOT cover your ears- it only makes things worse. So sit back, let you mouth hang open and enjoy the show. • Plan in advance o This tip goes for everything- accommodation, seeing the fireworks and mascletá, making a plan of which Fallas to go and see. Some people are die hard Falleros/as and they book their accommodation months in advance. I had heard that some places were charging €100 + per night for one bedroom apartments. Be smart and book ahead. o Do book in advance. I would suggest booking an air bnb a few months before or a hotel if you really want to splash out. If you know someone who could host you in Valencia city- even better. o In my opinion the best barrios (neighbourhoods) are those of Russafa, El Carmen and near Gran Via. They tend to have the best Fallas, food trucks and street parties. • Be thrifty o My friends and I managed to do Fallas on a pretty small budget. Of course we didn’t have to factor in accommodation however there are ways that you can cut costs. o The “no drinking on the street’ rule kind of goes out of the window during Fallas. The roads are swarming with police however they don’t even bat an eyelid. Lots of people will be selling beers, and there are makeshift bars on nearly every corner. Spain is known for cheap alcohol anyway but if you want to save yourself a bit of money, buy your alcohol at the supermarket in bulk. A street vendor may charge you €1 for a can of beer but I can guarantee that if you pop to the supermarket the night before you can get them for half the price. • Be street smart o During Fallas there are plenty of opportunists preying on unsuspected tourists. o Do wear your backpack around your front. You may feel like an idiot but its better to be safe than sorry. If you really want to be extra secure I would recommend putting a lock via the zips- that way you know that only you can get in. o Don’t parade your phones, cameras around. Of course its fine to take photos but do be vigilant and aware of the people around you. o Never put your phone in you back pocket. It’s there one minute and gone the next. o Avoid travelling in large groups. I can guarantee that you will all lose each other by the end of the night. You also may be seen as easy targets. o Keep your wits about you. Children are always running lose with petardos (mini firecrackers) and they tend to discard of them quite carelessly. Keep your eyes peeled and your ears open- I’ve seen people how have had a run in with the firecrackers and believe me- they came off a lot worse. • General housekeeping o During Fallas the roads get pretty congested and filled with litter. The bins do overflow and the roads have a pungent air of human urine. Don’t be a d**khead and litter- I know it can be tempting but it just adds to the problem. o Public transport is often very temperamental during Fallas- I can assure you that you’ll be doing a lot of walking. The final day alone I walked 40,000 steps! Do wear close-toed comfortable shoes- one to avoid the pee stained streets and two to avoid getting blisters. o The roads are usually lined with port-a-loos however they aren’t always the most hygienic. Do carry extra tissues and hand sanitizer just in case you’re caught off guard. o Fallas is a lot of walking and waiting around- bring something along to keep you entertained- between the fireworks, la crema and mascletás- whether that be a book, headphones or even some cards. o Download the official Fallas app! It has lots of information- including a map listing all the nearby Fallas as well as details about parades and different stages for the street parties. o Chances are you’ll be out for most of the day so don’t do what I did and drain your phone battery- bring along a portable charger- or make frequent stops to places with outlets. o I would recommend napping during the day. Fallas is a strange holiday and you tend to lose sense of time. It’s totally acceptable to schedule an hour long nap at 9pm if it means you can keep on partying until 4am! o Learn a few Spanish phrases- even if they are just the basics as it does go a long way and the locals do appreciate it. They may even give you insider knowledge about the best stages and where to find the after parties too Now that I’ve inundated you with all of this information here is a selection of some of my favourite Fallas that I saw throughout the holiday. This Falla won the main prize- it was based in Campanar. The winning Falla is usually the last one to be burned. This Egypt inspired Falla was situated in Russafa. Things to do amongst the fireworks and the mascletás: o Visit the niñots exhibition. Each year there is a niñots exhibition in Valencia before la planta (the act of ‘planting’ the infantil fallas in their location). You’ll be able to see them all together before they are released to the public. The entrance fee was €3 and it was based at the City of Arts and Sciences. o I would also recommend a visit to the Museo Faller. It has a permanent exhibition featuring niñots from previous years. It is full of information all about the history of Fallas, why it is so significant ad special to the Valencia people. It’s also only €1 entry fee for all students too. o Visit the Plaza de la Virgen on the 17th and 18th March to see la ofrenda de las flores. You will see the copious floral arrangements that each Falla organises as an offering to San Jose. The plaza is a beautiful sight to see and it smells amazing too! o Rent a bike and wander through different neighbourhoods on a scavenger hunt for hidden Fallas. **Remember Fallas is a holiday after all- you don’t want to tire yourself all the time. Take a day to head to the beach or perhaps to a pueblo. I wouldn’t recommend cramming everything into one day as it is really tiring- spread it out, take your time and enjoy it. I am now a converted fallera and I would definitely love to come back and see the festival again- after having experienced it like a local. I’m so sad that it’s over but also ready to hibernate and re-calibrate my sleeping pattern! I would definitely recommend seeing Fallas at least once in your lifetime- it is so unique to Valencia and the craftsmanship of the statues as well the community spirit which is shared by both young and old is extremely endearing to see. My favourite Falla of them all- located near Plaza del Toros. The won third prize overall- it is an homage to musicals. For more information on this holiday I’ll leave a few links down below: Wikipedia page on Fallas Official Tourism page all about Fallas Video of the main falls burning